Food. And I am reminded of the mystery of life. Mine I denuded. I unsheathed, peeled back. Uncovered and consumed. Such complex succulent creation.
When I lived in Spain I ate a banana every day to remind myself I was alive. I had no kitchen, no oven, no hot water. My small living area, shared first with Pepe then Paco, students at the Universidad de Granada, boasted two electric appliances. One a space heater that sat under the big round table blanketed like an old woman. And we youthful things were to spend nights with our legs under the blanket, good Spanish grandchildren tucked into grandma’s folds, doing our homework by dim light.
Our other appliance was a hot plate. One to be exact. One coiled burner and one cheap saucepan. I bought a box of chamomile teabags, which in Spain came with sugar built in. The one thing I ever cooked in an entire year, hot chamomile tea. I smoked and drank and ploughed my body with sugar, and so the tea was a reminder that I was loved. By a mother and father far away, a whole world accessible through crackling phone lines, although we rarely talked.
My staples were:
- Cafe-con-leche, which I bought every morning from another Pepe, the owner of La Llave, the tiny narrow bar a hop-skip-and-jump across the cobblestone street. That Pepe opened La Llave by 10 each morning, when the street came alive with pigeons making their noisy coo-coo-coos, little delivery trucks stopping and starting, aluminum doors rolling back. Pepe’s son called from up the street, Pa-pa, Pa-pa, his small voice echoed and made grand by the old, tightly wedged buildings.
- Crusty white bread I ate with hard cheese. Spanish women my age pulled out the chewy insides of the loaves so as not to gain weight. I bought mine from a small bakery whose glass cases opened to the street, and I defiantly ate the whole thing, like a savage at times.
Grapes from the fruit vendor, which after I ate them made me feel as if I had swallowed water balloons and was floating inside myself. - Pasteles and nuts I bought almost every morning from Mina, a billowy working-class neighbor who my vieja landladies called vulgar because she spent nights in La Llave. For a long while I preferred the packaged cakes (they were small, and not exactly cakes) in Mina’s kiosk over the freshly baked ones from the bakery. One time during that phase I walked across Plaza Romanilla and as I passed an entryway to a cigarette shop, a fat, toadlike man clucked his tongue at me and said, “Te engorda.” “It’ll make you fat.” I told him calm and businesslike, as if I were bidding him good morning, “Gordo, tu, tocate el pollo.” You, fatso, go jerk off. I held my head high and jiggled on down the road with the 20 pounds I’d already gained.
- Sweet Cortesia white wine, after noon, of course.
- An occasional plum.
- And small bananas brought across the Strait of Gibraltar from Morocco. Or so I imagined.
The bananas in Spain were an explosion of taste, sweet and thick. Not a drop of water in any bite. Rich like cream or an old woman’s rice pudding.
I never knew where I was going in Spain, only that I was navigating away from loneliness. The bananas were not exactly a compass, but they were an anchor. They were what was right about being in Spain, what was wrong with the U.S. I assigned them to the continent of Africa, and rendered my life in Spain that much more exotic. Located in Europe, accessible to France, Germany, Italy, Sweden, Denmark, and a hop-skip-jump even to Morocco and then the rest of Africa. I allowed that I (nor anyone in America, for that matter) had never truly tasted a banana, not in all my 26 years. That we were inferior, unschooled, unsophisticated. White and bland, so unlike southern Spain or even the dark, vast, wondrous, bounty of Africa, rich in minerals, raw materials, rhinos, and true bananas.
My banana this morning musters only a memory. It is sweet and bittersweet. I was looking for myself, and what I found was a tiny ray of sun in an otherwise gray, muffled aloneness. I drudged through each day as if it were a sentence in prison. I would do my time. I eventually enrolled in aerobics, which I took from a teacher with firm everything. I noticed when she undressed for her shower that she had a dimple in her left buttock.
My banana today is big and long–too much for my tastes. In my mouth a bite smacks gloppy. I don’t like the sound of chewed American banana. Did it take too long getting here from southern nethers? How did it lose so much?
I picture a monkey jumping from Ceuta to Gibraltar. Monkeys lived on that rock, jumping in easy hops across the rough surface, a hop-skip-jump. Monkeys eating sweet creamy bananas, African style.
Still. Any banana is a miracle. It’s a miracle any of us survives. Our flesh is delicate.























Re: BLOG: Chew You (Too) – Monkey Mind
I was most intrigued by your reference to the monkeys on the Rock. And so I followed your links. Gibraltar and her monkeys, the Barbary Macaques. Last of the Old World monkey species living in Europe. Spaced across the Atlas Mountains in Algeria and Morocco to the Rock of Gibraltar. All this, a lesson in geography and culture for me.
The Barbary’s never-to-be-lost connection to Winston Churchill and the way British troops nurtured and cared for the monkeys when Gibraltar was under British rule. Superstition? The fight for sovereignty over the Rock, bone of contention in Anglo-Spanish relations – I wonder if the monkeys noticed?
The Rock of Gibraltar, 1,396 feet of limestone near one of the most densely populated areas in the world, covered with miles of tunneled roads, and on the top, 250-300 wild Barbary Macaques. Your links led me to 4 different video snippets and I watched the great monkeys roaming atop Gibraltar, wind rustling their hair, young on their backs.
The Barbary Macaques are matriarchal, 10-30 in a troop, hierarchy determined by lineage to the lead female. There’s that word again, lineage. Matriarchies are Old World, for sure, nearly wiped off the planet by eons of patriarchal rule. You have to dig pretty deep to find a human matriarchal society on the third rock from the sun.
I don’t get it. Where is the threat in assertive nurturing?
Barbary males help rear the young and the females prefer males who are highly parental. If only the human species could adapt to these monkey mores, human children would be much better cared for in this crazy world.
You made me want to visit this place of ancient Monkeys and high, lowland coastal Rock where the climate is Mediterranean and Two Winds prevail. I want to feel the rush of the Westerlies whipping up turbulent fresh air and biting cold seas that smack me right in the face.
Then the Easterlies, Saharan breezes that sweep in from Africa, saturating every hair on my body with humidity and warmth. In Montana we called these warm seasonal winds the Chinooks. But in western Montana they were warm and dry, blowing down the eastern slopes of the Rockies.
There are lots of fascinating video clips of the Barbary Macaques. There you can glimpse a few rich seconds of life with the Monkeys on top of Gibraltar.
Monkey Mind. A great way to start a Sunday morning.